Madison County Beekeeping Association Organizational Notes


Newly elected officers for MCBA for 2007-2008 are,

President Harold Green

Vice President Bill Mullins

Secretary-Treasurer  Chris Cambron

 

 

 

 

Madison County Beekeepers Association

Meeting Minutes

March 13, 2008

I.             Call to order

Hal Green, MCBA president called to order the regular meeting of the Madison County Beekeepers Association at 6:30 p.m. on March 13, 2008 in the Education Room of the Huntsville/Madison County Botanical Gardens.

II.                      Open issues

a)         The first candidate for the Young Beginning Beekeeper Program, David Chambers, and his family were introduced to the MCBA members.  Mr. Chambers and his mentor, Maynard Dalton reported the current 4H group is inactive.  Mr. Chambers and Mr. Dalton will work closely with the Madison County Cooperative Extension office to organize an active 4H group.

b)                  Bill Mullins will be providing 2 bee swarms to the YBBP candidate. 

c)         Lonnie Funderburg announced the date and location of the Alabama Beekeepers Association picnic.  MCBA members voted to donate $100.00 to purchase soft drinks for the picnic, and a check in this amount was given to Mr. Funderburg.

d)         Frances Akridge requested volunteers to staff the beekeepers display at Alabama Constitution Village during the week of April 21-25, 2008.  She will be organizing a schedule for attendance for the volunteers.

III.      Committee Reports

a)            Chris Cambron presented the Treasurer’s report. 

b)            Bill Mullins gave the ALFA report.

IV.      Presentations

Dennis Barclift, the Alabama state apiarist, presented a program on “Update on beekeeping in Alabama .”

VIII.      Adjournment

Bill Mullins adjourned the meeting at 9:00 p.m.

 

Minutes submitted by:  Laura Cambron (Co-Secretary/Treasurer)

Minutes approved by:

:  

 

 

A&M University Pollination Program

pic2.jpg (5123 bytes) Drs. Mr. and Mrs. Ken Ward present an outstanding program on the results of the study of the effect of honeybees as cross pollinators of BT cotton. CLICK HERE for the latest test results.

This is a very large file and may take some time to download.

pic1.jpg (4399 bytes)

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The state of Alabama requires that all colonies of honeybees kept in Alabama be registered with the state Department of Agriculture and Industries by October 31 each year (yep, you got to register every year). You can be fined by the state if found in violation of this requirement. The fee for registration is a very small as follows:

$4.00 for 1 to 9 colonies

$8.00 for 10 to 25 colonies

$12.00 for 25 to 49 colonies

$17.00 for 50 to 99 colonies

$25.00 for 100 to 249 colonies

$40.00 for 250 to 499 colonies

$60.00 for 500 colonies

To register your colonies, CLICK ON and print the below forms (note, if you have more than one bee-yard location or an unusual location you must enter this information of the back side of the form which is shown below as side 2). Fill out the form, attach your check, and sent them to:

Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries

ATTN: Apiary Section  

P.O. Box 3336

Montgomery, AL 36109-0336

REGISTRATION FORM SIDE 1

REGISTRATION FORM SIDE 2

Welcome to Alabama Beekeeping, you are now legal, from this particular standpoint.

Submitted by: Bob Fanning


 

 

 

INSPECTION LIST ALABAMA

PACKAGE AND QUEEN BEE SHIPPERS

NOTICE:

In the past, I have strongly recommended that all Alabama beekeepers purchase their package bees and queen from Alabama state certified producers that produce their bees within the state of Alabama.    This was primarily because of our "closed border" law.   

Each year a list of those suppliers that had been certified for that year were listed here on alabees.com.

The Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industry will no longer furnish the list of Alabama beekeepers that have been inspected by the state apiculturist.    The 2004 list that was previously published here has been removed because it is surely very out of date.

Since the State Department of Agriculture and Industry will no longer furnish an updated list I have to assume that either some quirky Homeland Security rule prohibits publishing the list or no one was inspected or no one passed inspection.  

Maybe it does not really matter anymore because the closed boarder law is apparently still on the books but exceptions have been made by the Department of Agriculture and Industry to allow Alabama beekeepers to ship their bees out of state and back for pollinating out of state crops.    This negates my reason for recommending the purchase of Alabama bees.

Therefore I do not recommend Alabama Packages and Queens over any other state.    I recommend purchasing packages and queens from what ever state that will meet our delivery / price needs.

Bob Fanning 4/1/07

 


 


Methods of feeding:
I started feeding with Boardman feeders. I believe everyone knows what those are, just a quart jar turned up on a little plastic holder, wedged in the entrance. I like these, as you can see at a glance how much feed is in the jar without having to open the hive. The three drawbacks with these, is 1; they don’t hold much, 2; they promote robbing, and 3; the bees won’t go to them in cold weather. 

Another kind of feeder is what they call the division board feeder, which is a feeder you put in the hive in place of a frame. Some are made of wood, and Amazonite, and you can also buy plastic ones from the bee supply houses. They have a rough interior to enable bees to go down to the level of the syrup, and then be able to climb back up. The main drawback on these is you have to open the hive to fill, and check the supply of feed. These work well in cold weather, as the feed is close to the cluster.

Another kind is the Miller type feeder. I never have used these, but it is simply a shallow super, with two compartments in it filled with feed. It has an opening in the center of the bottom, where the bees climb up into the chamber on screen, (for footing) to feed. Some use syrup on one end, and the other end fill with artificial pollen. They will hold about 3 gallons of syrup. The drawback on these is the bees have to climb up to the top of the dam, then back down to the level of the feed.  The simplest and cheapest way I have found is called "baggie feeding". You make a ring over the top of your cluster, to make room for your baggie. This ring only needs to be about 2 inches high. This can be made of an old rotted super. Cut the old super down to the height you want. Or, go first class and make them new out of strips of lumber. Whatever way you do, you want room over your cluster to place a 1 gallon baggie, filled ½ full of syrup. Place it on the top bars by brushing the bees out of the way with the bottom of the bag. Take your knife, and cut a slit about 2 inches long in the bag, push a little on the bag to force some syrup out of the bag, to help them find their free meal. What ever you do make sure the bag is sealed. I had a bag that had a bad zipper, and I lost 2 quarts of syrup down my leg all the way into my shoe, I even had it in my pocket. You do that once, and you will check every bag from then on. 

Submitted by Lyle Greenwood Madison Co. Beekeepers Assoc.
 

Other comments on feeding methods:

If you use "baggie feeders" per the above instructions you might consider not placing them directly the top bars but instead place a queen excluder there and put the "baggie feeder" on top of it.  This will make it much easier to move the "baggie" if the need arises.   You can easily pick up the plastic bag full of liquid with holes in it if it is on an excluder.  Good luck moving it otherwise!  Also a tip (from Bill Mullins) for filling the "zip lock bag" is to place the empty bag inside a 2 lb empty coffee can (or equal).  Then fill the bag to the top of the coffee can, zip it and remove it.  This serves two purposes:

  1. It is hard to fill a flimsy plastic bag with liquid (especially on the tail gate, in the field - from a 5 gallon jug) but it is not that tough to fill a 2 lb coffee can.
  2. It makes it easier to get the right amount of fluid inside the bag and makes all bags uniform in volume.

Another good and possibly the best feeding option:

With a round hole saw, cut a "jar top size" round hole in the center of you inner cover.  Take a standard Boardman Feeder setup and don't use the plastic feeder.  With the inner cover on the hive to be fed, insert the jar of feed just as you would in the Boardman feeder, except put it in the hole in the inner cover.  Then add an empty super to space the outer cover up and replace the outer cover.  I have also stood 4 brick on end to act like piers instead of a super and placed the outer cover on that.  Works well but is not weather tight.  Obviously, you cut the hole in the inner cover the same diameter as the hole in the Boardman feeder.  If you prefer to purchase the perforated jar lid, it is Walter T. Kelley Catalog No. 162.

Hold on to the Boardman feeder as they work well as feeders in warm weather if you put them on top of the inner cover and let the bees come through the inner cover vent hole to get to the feed.  You can feed pretty fast with this method because you can use several Boardman feeders on the same hive.

Boardman feeders work better for me on top on the inner cover than in the entrance as designed to work.  The bees can get to them better in cool weather, they don't leak on the ground attracting ants and robbers and they may even be a little warmer in cool weather.  

By the way, if you buy or build inner covers with only the round hole instead of the standard oval vent hole should you ever need to stop it up (like to prevent robbing) just put a jar lid in it.   Not related but if you have menthol bags (with menthol) and robber bees are trying to get in the inner cover vent hole, just place the menthol in the bag over it and they will soon abandon the effort.   Seems they don't like the smell and it probably mask the stress pheromone odor and or honey smell.

Submitted by Bob Fanning 11/19/05


 


I saw an interesting post today regarding a new strain of FB that the author called it SAFB for South African FB. I appears to be immune to Oxy-Tet. He had some interesting information on how microorganism actually produce the desirable effects in chemicals like Oxy-Tet and how they become immune to these chemicals. Interesting that he so pointed out the ills of "feeding unknown sourced honeys" to the bees. He, in particular, singled out Argentina. Now that is comforting as most of the US retail sold honey is from Argentina. Folks innocently throw a used jar in their trash can and our bees find it. Not encouraging, is it huh?

BOB
 


 


Suppliers of beekeeping equipment of interest to north Alabama and central Tennessee beekeepers

Below is a short list of major beekeeping suppliers .   Catalogs are generally available by calling the supplier's 800 number or clicking on their webpage address.    Most catalog companies will automatically send you a new catalog each year if you have ordered supplies from them.  They generally come in Jan. or Feb.   If you are going to order bees, or queens you should get those orders in early, most of the dealers require a deposit.  See (Certified Bee Suppliers) in this web site.

Note:

Note:

It is with much regret and sorrow that I announce that Mr. Glenn Stephens has died.   As the result, general beekeeping supplies are no longer available from S & H Honey Farms in Columbia, Tenn.   The only remains of his operation is the "jar business".   One of Glenn's long time employees and friend Jason Dodson was able to hold onto the "jar business".    Most all items that Glenn sold from the "jar warehouse" building are still available and can be purchased from the Jason but not from the same warehouse building.   Jason has built a new warehouse on his property which is right next door to Glenn's old warehouse.   To get to Jason's warehouse, go one driveway past (approaching from Huntsville) what was Glenn's driveway.    Jason is a full time farmer and beekeeper so it would be a good idea to call him before you leave so that he can meet you at the warehouse.

 

Jason is operating under then name "Dodson Farms" right now.    Jason He can be reached at 931 388 2420 Office or 931 698 4959 Cell phone.   Please support Jason's operation as it is a significant benefit to the beekeepers of North Alabama / South Central Tennessee.   It is in our best interest for Jason to be successful and stay in business.

Jason Dodson

Dodson Farms

2274 Nashville Hwy

Columbia, TN 38410

Phone: 931 388 2420

Click Here For a Map to Dodson Farms warehouse

Beekeeping Suppliers
Dadant & Sons Inc.
51 South 2nd Street
Hamilton, IL 62341
Phone: (800) 637-7468
Fax: (217) 847-3660
Email:
dadant@dadant.com
Western Bee Suppliers Inc.
Main Street & 9th Ave.
Polson MT 59860
Phone: (800) 548 8440
Email
: stinger@ptinet.net
Mann Lake Ltd.
County Road 40 & First Street
Hackensack, MN 56452
Phone: (800) 233-6663
Email: beekeeper@mannlakeltd.com
Betterbee Inc.
R.R. #4, Box 4070
Greenwich, NY 12834
Phone: (800) 632-3379
Fax: (518) 692-9669       Email: Betterbeehelp@betterbee.com
Walter T. Kelley Co., Inc.
P.O. Box 240
807 West Main Street
Clarkson , KY    42726
Phone   1-800-233-2899 &
1-270- 242-2012
Fax:      1-270- 242-4801
Email:  kelleybees@kynet.net
Rossman Apiaries Inc.
P.O. Box 905
Moultrie, GA 31776
Phone: (800) 333-7677
Fax: (502) 242-4801
Email:
jrossman@surfsouth.com
GloryBee 
P.O. Box 2744
Eugene, OR 97402
Phone: (800) 456-7923
Fax: (541) 689-9692
Email: sales@glorybee.com
 
A.I. Root Company
P.O. Box 706
Medina, OH 44258
Phone: (800) 289-7668 Ext.3219
 

 

Lapp's Bee Supply Center
500 South Main Street
P.O. Box 460
Reeseville, WI 53579
Phone: (800) 321-1960
Fax: (414) 927-3848

Email: lappsbeesupply@powerweb.com

 Pierco Inc.
17425 Railroad St.
City of Industry, CA 91748
Phone: (800) 233-2662
E-mail
: pierco@calmold.com
Maxant Industries, Inc.
28 Harvard Road
P.O. Box 454
Ayer, MA 01432
Phone: (508) 772-0576
Fax: (508) 772-6365
E-mail: ric56@net1plus.com
Brushy Mountain Bee Farm
610 Bethany Church Road
Moravian Falls, NC 28654
Phone: (800) 233-7929
Fax: (910) 921-2681
Email: sforrest@wilkes.net

Updated 11/19/05 B. Fanning

ARCHIVES


 Recipes

Instructions for making creamed honey.

First some definitions;
Starter:
A starter is a small amount of crystallized honey that is used to begin the crystallization process. It need not be fine grain. Any crystallized honey will do.
Living starter:
Living starter is honey that after an optimum treatment contains a large amount of crystal's seeds. Living in the meaning that the crystallization process has not ended.

The process
To make a living starter:
1. Liquid honey is mixed with 10% crystallized honey (starter) at 20-25 degrees C.
2. The mixture is cooled to 10 degrees and vigorously stirred during 1 minute, then left in 10 degrees.
3. The stirring is repeated every 12 hours until the honey becomes firm and creamy.

The living starter is now ready to be used. The keeping qualities are such that the starter has to be used within the next few days. When the crystallization process ends the small seeds start to move towards each other and form larger crystals that will make the finished honey less fine-grained.

Using the living starter
To secure an optimum result the starter must not be heated before poured into the liquid honey. When the starter is heated, the crystals also start to move against each other to form larger units.
To avoid this, liquid honey is first added to the 10-degree starter during continuous stirring. To add the same amount of liquid honey as the starter is sufficient. Now the living starter is ready to use.

Approximately 6% of the diluted starter is now added to the liquid honey during mixing. The mixing continues until the starter is completely mixed into the honey. The liquid honey should not be warmer than 27 degrees C when the starter is added.

It is absolutely necessary to immediately mix the starter in the liquid honey. Otherwise, the starter will be destroyed!

Honey is now ready to be packed into jars. Leave to crystallize in 5-15 degrees C. The fastest crystallization is obtained at 10-12 degrees. It takes around 3 weeks to finish the process.
If the honey becomes too hard in the jars, wait 1-2 days after adding the starter before packing and cooling.
 



 
 
 
 

National Honey Board finds Honey as Medicine

Honey Best Ointment for Wounds, Biochemist Says

Sept. 18, 1999 Rebecca Wigod The Canadian Press VANCOUVER 

Honey, an ancient Greek balm for sores and abscesses, has fallen into disuse. After all, who wants to drizzle the sweet, sticky, golden goo on a burn or wound? New Zealand biochemist, Peter Molan, for one.

After nearly 20 years of research, Molan has come to the conclusion that honey cleans and heals wounds better than the dressings and ointments used in hospitals. ''I've just been asked to send some honey over to a hospital in Britain where they've got a teenager who has a wound so painful that they have to give him general anesthetic every time they change the dressing,'' he told a ballroom full of rapt beekeepers at Apimondia 99 on Thursday. 

Molan works with doctors and nurses at Waikato Hospital in Hamilton, New Zealand. They are setting up a pilot study to assess honey's efficacy as a treatment for bedsores, diabetic foot ulcers and other hard-to-heal lesions. When he burns himself in his kitchen at home, as happened recently, he automatically reaches for the honey as first aid. About 50 studies, published in the British Journal of Surgery and other journals, attest to honey's ability to maintain a moist healing environment, banish infection, promote new skin growth and prevent scarring. 

Clinicians who are skeptical haven't read the literature, Molan said. ''Most would be surprised to know there have been randomized, controlled trials which have proved that it's more effective than the two most widely used treatments for burns,'' he said. Those treatments are silver sulphadiazine ointment and polyurethane film dressings. Molan said he doesn't have the complete answer to how honey works, but said bees add enzymes to nectar to turn it into honey. ''One of those enzymes produces hydrogen peroxide and gluconic acid,'' he said. 

Honey releases its hydrogen peroxide slowly, so it is less damaging to skin tissue than the drugstore type, he said. 

Molan said that in the last 10 years, medical personnel in New Zealand, Australia and Great Britain have rediscovered honey as a wound dressing. 

He has helped design honey-impregnated dressing pads and honey packaged in tubes, so they aren't getting it from grocery-store jars. ''It definitely helps, in getting honey recognized as a medicine, to have it looking like a medicine,'' he said. 

c. The Canadian Press .
 
 

 


 
   
Classifieds 

 
For Sale

Call Bill Mullins 256-828-4836 or Hal Green 265-881-8531, for top quality 55% food grade high Fructose Corn syrup.  This is not syrup, which has been cleaned out of some dirty old bakery tanks. This comes directly from the manufacturer in Bills stainless steel tanks, and then stored in his heated stainless steel tanks, until you pick it up in your own containers. This is the most convenient and economical way of feeding your bees. It is also a much better way to feed as the bees don’t have to convert it to fructose, as they have to do with sugar. The bottom line is, it’s CHEAP. .26 cents per lb, In your own containers. Try a jug, you won’t go back to sugar

Bill Mullins 8714-Moores Mill Rd. Meridianville AL. 256-828-4836 FLINT RIVER QUEEN

Hal Green 1009 Kinsey Dr. Hntsvl. Al. 256-881-8531, FLINT RIVER QUEENS.


WANTED TO BUY

I will buy your wax, top prices paid call, Bill Mullins 828-4836

I would like your used bee shipping crates,   and used Queen cages  I would like to start my own hive.  If you have any used bee hives and equipment,   I would like to buy it.
E-mail: Karlsplants@juno.com
or call: (256)751-1470     Ask For Karl

 

 

HONEY FOR SALE Most all members of the Madison County Beekeepers Association have honey for sale. The below local beekeepers manage large enough apiary to have honey available all year. Feel free to click on any of the email address below to contact the beekeeper nearest you.

 

Charlie Cornelison
349 Berry Hollow Rd.
Gurley, AL 35748
ph256 776 3743
No Email

Maynard Dalton
861 Scott Rd.
Hazel Green, AL 35750
ph256 828 7963
mcdalton@mindspring.com

Beth Dunson
2670 Hurricane Rd.
New Market, AL 35761
ph256 379 3671
BETHSBEEZ@aol.com
Bob Fanning
1332 Four Mile Post Rd.
Huntsville, AL 35802
ph256 883 9601
k4vb@knology.net
Lyle Greenwood
310 Frontier Rd.
Arab, AL 35016
ph256 586 2206
lwood@mindspring.com
Lionel Evans
1307 Fern St.
Athens, AL 35613
ph 256 232 9073
SmoothEvan@aol.com
Bill Mullins
8714 Moores Mill Rd.
Meridianville, AL 35759
ph256 828 4836
Billshoneyfarm@mchsi.com
Douglas Peterson
15642 E. Limestone Rd
Athens, AL 35613
ph256 233 3618
beehack@bellsouth.net
Harold Green
1009 Kinsey Dr. Huntsville,AL 35802
ph 256 881 8531 halgre@knology.net
 

 

 

 

Dale R. Rohe
117 Cline  Dr.               Madison, AL 35757
ph 256 837 2208 drohe@knology.net
www.rohebeeranch.com
Roger Owens
1203 Joshua  Dr.               Huntsville, AL 35803
ph 256 880 2584 apiaries@bellsouth.net

 

  

  Note to MCBA members, if you would like your name included in the above list and can supply honey all year, contact Bob Fanning @ k4vb@knology.net.  
  



 

MCBA GROUP PURCHASES

One of the advantages to belonging to a local Beekeeping Association is to pool individual resources and needs and apply a blanket solution. Each spring and fall, the MCBA does a group equipment purchase. We have several large beekeeping operations in the association that places several rather large orders yearly. With the group buy, all of these operations when combined can negotiate a better price. The smaller beekeeping operations can tack their small quantity needs onto these big orders resulting in savings for everyone.

FALL ORDER

IWe do not make a spring medication order so be sure and include your spring  needs in your fall  order. Click here for a copy of the order form. Try and pull your needs together and give them Bill Mullins (no email, phone: 256 828 4836). We would like to finalize the group order ASAP.  You can call Bill now or let him know at the picnic at the latest or email Bob Fanning at k4vb@knology.net.

Medication is the major item ordered in the fall, however other items will be ordered if sufficient quantities are required to make it worthwhile. The following is a guideline to help you determine your medication needs:

Terramycin ……...………. 1 bag will treat 13 colonies the required 3 times each

Apistan …………………... *2 strips required per colony

Check Mite (Coumaphos). *2 strips required per colony

Menthol ………………….. 1 Bag per colony

Fumidil-B ………………... 1 (0.5 gm.) bottle will treat 3 hives

*Use either Apistan or Check Mite for Varroa there is no need to use both at the same time

How to use medication

Do not add any medication (except Crisco, if you use it) to the hive until all production supers have been removed for the winter.

Terramycin

Terramycin (Oxytetracycline) is a powder that comes in a 6.4 oz. Bag. One bag will treat approximately 13 colonies, the required three times (or 40 colonies, one time). To mix, use one package of Terramycin (6.4 oz.) with 2 ½ lb. of confectionery sugar. Sprinkle this mixture on the top bars of the top most super, three times at 10-day intervals. Terramycin treats for Foulbrood, both EFB and AFB.

Apistan

Apistan (Fluvalinate) comes in brown plastic looking strips. Place one Apistan strip between frames 3 and 4 and one between frames 7 and 8 (assuming you use ten frames in the brood chamber) for a total of 2 strips per colony. The Apistan strips have two "ears" pre-cut to be broken out. Hang the strips between the frames with the "ears" bent out to prevent the strips from falling to the bottom board. This is primarily so you can get them out after treatment and to hold them in the brood cluster. Apistan is to be applied in the brood chamber where the brood clusters. Apistan treats for Varroa Mites.

 

Menthol

Menthol comes if a very porous 50-gm.bag. Place one Bag on the top bars of the top most super of each colony. Place a queen excluder first, then the menthol bag, then the inner cover with the deep side down. This allows more air to circulate thus increasing the efficiency of the treatment. IF YOU TREAT BEES IN THE HOT SUN WITH THE TEMPERATURE ABOVE 80° F, THE BAG SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE BOTTOM BOARD. Temperature needs to be above 60° F for effective evaporation of the crystals. Menthol treats for Tracheal Mites.

 

Fumidil-B

Fumidil-B is a powder that comes in three different size bottles. If you use the 0.5 gm size bottle, mix it with 6 gallon of high fructose corn syrup (available from Flint River Queens (256 828 4836) at approximately 22¢ per pound) or sugar syrup. Feed each colony 2 gallons of this mixture in fall. Fumidil-B treats for Nosema, a digestive disease. If you use larger size bottles, mix per bottle directions.

Formic Acid

Formic Acid is not included the group purchase because no one in the MCBA has enough experience with it to make recommendations. Use it at your own risk. It is best to use it in the fall and not to use it in the spring as it is reported to have a negative affect on queen performance.

Check Mite

CheckMite can be used instead of Apistan for Varroa Mites and is the only current approved treatment for Small Hive Beatles.    It is also recommended for treating mites that are resistant to Apistan. 

Small Hive Beetles (SHB) arrived in most north Alabama apiaries in the spring of 2005 in all likely hood brought here by one Birmingham beekeeper that brought hives known to have SHB to Limestone County for cotton honey.

The SHB is about 1/8 inch long and look somewhat like a bowl weevil without the sharp snout and smaller.  They run when exposed to light and are pretty quick. If you find SHB in your hives the only approved treatment in the hive is Check Mite (Coumaphos).

To treat for SHB, you will need one Checkmite strip and 5 x 5 inch piece of cardboard.    The surface should be removed from one side of the cardboard so that the corrugations are exposed.     Pre-cut, plastic 5 x 5 squares are available from Mann Lake Ltd, catalog No. DC-815.  

Cut one Check Mite strip in half so that you have two strips full width - half length.   Staple the two pieces to the corrugated side of a 5 x 5 inch piece of cardboard and place it in the center of the bottom board, Check Mite side down. The isles created by the cardboard should run "front to back" in the hive.

The beetles hide under the cardboard thus exposing themselves to the CheckMite, which kills them.

Since the SHB lives part of it’s life cycle in the ground as a larva and part in the hive as a beetle, the ground under and around your hives will should be treatment with the chemical "GuardStar".

Mix and apply GuardStar per label instructions.    You can not use a pump up sprayer or other application methods that produce a "Fog" as GuardStar contains Permethrin which kills bees on contact.    It is best applied using a sprinkler can like one would use to water flowers.   

Click here for a  good reference source for instructions on treating for SHB. 

 Coumaphos and GuardStar are very strong chemicals. If you use either, follow the instruction included with it TO THE LETTER.  If handled with the bare hands CheckMite will cause numbness in you hand or any other area it contacts.

PROTECTIVE GLOVES SUCH AS DISPOSABLE SURGICAL GLOVES SHOULD BE WORN WHEN HANDLING ALL CHEMICALS USED IN THE HIVE. PAY ATTENTION TO, AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS. IF YOU GET LOOSE ITEMS FROM 100 PIECE BOXES, GET A COPY OF THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE APPLICATION.

This warning is of particular importance if you use Check Mite.

Comb honey can not be eaten from hives treated with Check Mite. If you use Check Mite do not sell or eat the comb honey.

CLICK HERE FOR MORE NORTH ALABAMA HIVE MEDICATION INFORMATION

.

 


 

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