Newly elected officers for MCBA for 2007-2008 are,
President Harold
Green
Vice President
Bill Mullins
Secretary-Treasurer
Chris Cambron
|
Madison
County
Beekeepers Association
Meeting Minutes
March
13, 2008
I.
Call
to order
Hal
Green, MCBA president called to order the regular meeting of the
Madison County Beekeepers Association at 6:30 p.m. on March 13, 2008
in the Education Room of the Huntsville/Madison County Botanical
Gardens.
II.
Open issues
a)
The first candidate for the Young Beginning Beekeeper
Program, David Chambers, and his family were introduced to the MCBA
members. Mr. Chambers
and his mentor, Maynard Dalton reported the current 4H group is
inactive. Mr. Chambers
and Mr. Dalton will work closely with the Madison County Cooperative
Extension office to organize an active 4H group.
b)
Bill Mullins will be providing 2 bee swarms to
the YBBP candidate.
c)
Lonnie Funderburg announced the date and location of the
Alabama Beekeepers Association picnic.
MCBA members voted to donate $100.00 to purchase soft drinks
for the picnic, and a check in this amount was given to Mr.
Funderburg.
d)
Frances Akridge requested volunteers to staff the beekeepers
display at
Alabama
Constitution
Village
during the week of April 21-25, 2008.
She will be organizing a schedule for attendance for the
volunteers.
III.
Committee Reports
a)
Chris
Cambron presented the Treasurer’s report.
b)
Bill
Mullins gave the ALFA report.
IV.
Presentations
Dennis
Barclift, the
Alabama
state apiarist, presented a program on “Update on beekeeping in
Alabama
.”
VIII.
Adjournment
Bill
Mullins adjourned the meeting at 9:00 p.m.
Minutes submitted by:
Laura Cambron (Co-Secretary/Treasurer)
Minutes approved by:
:
A&M
University Pollination Program
 |
Drs. Mr. and Mrs. Ken Ward present an outstanding program on the results of the
study of the effect of honeybees as cross pollinators of BT cotton.
CLICK HERE for the latest test results. This
is a very large file and may take some time to download. |
 |
*******************************************************************************
REGISTER YOUR APIARY FOR 2008
The state of Alabama requires that all colonies of honeybees kept in
Alabama be registered with the state Department of Agriculture and Industries by October
31 each year (yep, you got to register every year). You can be fined by the state if found
in violation of this requirement. The fee for registration is a very small as follows:
$4.00 for 1 to 9 colonies
$8.00 for 10 to 25 colonies
$12.00 for 25 to 49 colonies
$17.00 for 50 to 99 colonies
$25.00 for 100 to 249 colonies
$40.00 for 250 to 499 colonies
$60.00 for 500 colonies
To register your colonies, CLICK ON and print the below forms (note, if you
have more than one bee-yard location or an unusual location you must enter this
information of the back side of the form which is shown below as side 2). Fill out the
form, attach your check, and sent them to:
Alabama Department of Agriculture and Industries
ATTN: Apiary Section
P.O. Box 3336
Montgomery, AL 36109-0336
REGISTRATION FORM SIDE 1
REGISTRATION FORM SIDE 2
Welcome to Alabama Beekeeping, you are now legal, from this particular
standpoint.
Submitted by: Bob Fanning |
|
INSPECTION LIST ALABAMA
PACKAGE AND QUEEN BEE SHIPPERS
NOTICE:
In the past,
I have strongly recommended that all Alabama beekeepers
purchase their package bees and queen from Alabama state
certified producers that produce their bees within the state
of Alabama. This was primarily because of
our "closed border" law.
Each year a
list of those suppliers that had been certified for that year
were listed here on alabees.com.
The Alabama
Department of Agriculture and Industry will no longer furnish
the list of Alabama beekeepers that have been inspected by the
state apiculturist. The 2004 list that was
previously published here has been removed because it is
surely very out of date.
Since the State Department of Agriculture
and Industry will no longer furnish an updated list
I have to assume that either some quirky Homeland Security
rule prohibits publishing the list or no one was inspected or
no one passed inspection.
Maybe it does not really matter anymore
because the closed boarder law is apparently still on the
books but exceptions have been made by the Department of
Agriculture and Industry to allow Alabama beekeepers
to ship their bees out of state and back for pollinating out
of state crops. This negates my reason for
recommending the purchase of Alabama bees.
Therefore I
do not recommend Alabama Packages and Queens over any other
state. I recommend purchasing packages and
queens from what ever state that will meet our delivery /
price needs.
Bob Fanning 4/1/07 |
Methods
of feeding:
I started
feeding with Boardman feeders. I believe everyone knows what those
are, just a quart jar turned up on a little plastic holder, wedged
in the entrance. I like these, as you can see at a glance how much
feed is in the jar without having to open the hive. The three
drawbacks with these, is 1; they don’t hold much, 2; they
promote robbing, and 3; the bees won’t go to them in cold
weather.
Another
kind of feeder is what they call the division board feeder, which
is a feeder you put in the hive in place of a frame. Some are made
of wood, and Amazonite, and you can also buy plastic ones from the
bee supply houses. They have a rough interior to enable bees to go
down to the level of the syrup, and then be able to climb back up.
The main drawback on these is you have to open the hive to fill,
and check the supply of feed. These work well in cold weather, as
the feed is close to the cluster.
Another
kind is the Miller type feeder. I never have used these, but it is
simply a shallow super, with two compartments in it filled with
feed. It has an opening in the center of the bottom, where the
bees climb up into the chamber on screen, (for footing) to feed.
Some use syrup on one end, and the other end fill with artificial
pollen. They will hold about 3 gallons of syrup. The drawback on
these is the bees have to climb up to the top of the dam, then
back down to the level of the feed. The simplest and
cheapest way I have found is called "baggie feeding".
You make a ring over the top of your cluster, to make room for
your baggie. This ring only needs to be about 2 inches high. This
can be made of an old rotted super. Cut the old super down to the
height you want. Or, go first class and make them new out of
strips of lumber. Whatever way you do, you want room over your
cluster to place a 1 gallon baggie, filled ½ full of syrup. Place
it on the top bars by brushing the bees out of the way with the
bottom of the bag. Take your knife, and cut a slit about 2 inches
long in the bag, push a little on the bag to force some syrup out
of the bag, to help them find their free meal. What ever you do
make sure the bag is sealed. I had a bag that had a bad zipper,
and I lost 2 quarts of syrup down my leg all the way into my shoe,
I even had it in my pocket. You do that once, and you will check
every bag from then on.
Submitted
by Lyle Greenwood Madison Co. Beekeepers Assoc.
Other
comments on feeding methods:
If
you use "baggie feeders" per the above instructions you
might consider not placing them directly the top bars but instead
place a queen excluder there and put the "baggie feeder"
on top of it. This will make it much easier to move the
"baggie" if the need arises. You can easily
pick up the plastic bag full of liquid with holes in it if it is
on an excluder. Good luck moving it otherwise! Also a
tip (from Bill Mullins) for filling the "zip lock bag" is
to place the empty bag inside a 2 lb empty coffee can (or equal).
Then fill the bag to the top of the coffee can, zip it and remove
it. This serves two purposes:
- It
is hard to fill a flimsy plastic bag with liquid (especially
on the tail gate, in the field - from a 5 gallon jug) but it
is not that tough to fill a 2 lb coffee can.
- It
makes it easier to get the right amount of fluid inside the
bag and makes all bags uniform in volume.
Another
good and possibly the best feeding option:
With a round hole saw,
cut a "jar top size" round hole in the center of you
inner cover. Take a standard Boardman Feeder setup and don't
use the plastic feeder. With the inner cover on the hive to
be fed, insert the jar of feed just as you would in the Boardman
feeder, except put it in the hole in the inner cover. Then
add an empty super to space the outer cover up and replace the
outer cover. I have also stood 4 brick on end to act like
piers instead of a super and placed the outer cover on that.
Works well but is not weather tight. Obviously, you cut the
hole in the inner cover the same diameter as the hole in the
Boardman feeder. If you prefer to purchase the perforated
jar lid, it is Walter T. Kelley Catalog No. 162.
Hold
on to the Boardman feeder as they work well as feeders in warm
weather if you put them on top of the inner cover and let the bees
come through the inner cover vent hole to get to the feed.
You can feed pretty fast with this method because you can use
several Boardman feeders on the same hive.
Boardman
feeders work better for me on top on the inner cover than in the
entrance as designed to work. The bees can get to them
better in cool weather, they don't leak on the ground attracting
ants and robbers and they may even be a little warmer in cool
weather.
By
the way, if you buy or build inner covers with only the round hole
instead of the standard oval vent hole should you ever need to
stop it up (like to prevent robbing) just put a jar lid in it.
Not related but if you have menthol bags (with menthol) and robber
bees are trying to get in the inner cover vent hole, just place
the menthol in the bag over it and they will soon abandon the
effort. Seems they don't like the smell and it
probably mask the stress pheromone odor and or honey smell.
Submitted
by Bob Fanning 11/19/05
I saw an interesting post today regarding a new strain of FB
that the author called it SAFB for South African FB. I appears to be immune to Oxy-Tet. He
had some interesting information on how microorganism actually produce the desirable
effects in chemicals like Oxy-Tet and how they become immune to these chemicals.
Interesting that he so pointed out the ills of "feeding unknown sourced honeys"
to the bees. He, in particular, singled out Argentina. Now that is comforting as most of
the US retail sold honey is from Argentina. Folks innocently throw a used jar in their
trash can and our bees find it. Not encouraging, is it huh?
BOB
|
Beekeeping Suppliers
Dadant
& Sons Inc.
51 South 2nd Street
Hamilton, IL 62341
Phone: (800) 637-7468
Fax: (217) 847-3660
Email: dadant@dadant.com |
Western
Bee Suppliers Inc.
Main Street & 9th Ave.
Polson MT 59860
Phone: (800) 548 8440
Email: stinger@ptinet.net |
Mann
Lake Ltd.
County Road 40 & First Street
Hackensack, MN 56452
Phone: (800) 233-6663
Email: beekeeper@mannlakeltd.com |
Betterbee
Inc.
R.R. #4, Box 4070
Greenwich, NY 12834
Phone: (800) 632-3379
Fax: (518) 692-9669
Email:@betterbee.com |
Walter
T. Kelley Co., Inc.
P.O. Box
240
807 West Main Street
Clarkson
,
KY
42726
Phone
1-800-233-2899 &
1-270-
242-2012
Fax:
1-270- 242-4801
Email:
kelleybees@kynet.net
|
Rossman
Apiaries Inc.
P.O. Box 905
Moultrie, GA 31776
Phone: (800) 333-7677
Fax: (502) 242-4801
Email: jrossman@surfsouth.com |
GloryBee
P.O. Box 2744
Eugene, OR 97402
Phone: (800) 456-7923
Fax: (541) 689-9692
Email: sales@glorybee.com
|
A.I.
Root Company
P.O. Box 706
Medina, OH 44258
Phone: (800) 289-7668 Ext.3219
|
Lapp's
Bee Supply Center
500 South Main Street
P.O. Box 460
Reeseville, WI 53579
Phone: (800) 321-1960
Fax: (414) 927-3848
Email:
lappsbeesupply@powerweb.com
|
Pierco
Inc.
17425 Railroad St.
City of Industry, CA 91748
Phone: (800) 233-2662
E-mail:
pierco@calmold.com |
Maxant
Industries, Inc.
28 Harvard Road
P.O. Box 454
Ayer, MA 01432
Phone: (508) 772-0576
Fax: (508) 772-6365
E-mail: ric56@net1plus.com |
Brushy
Mountain Bee Farm
610 Bethany Church Road
Moravian Falls, NC 28654
Phone: (800) 233-7929
Fax: (910) 921-2681
Email: sforrest@wilkes.net |
Updated 11/19/05 B. Fanning
ARCHIVES
Recipes
Instructions for making creamed honey.
First some definitions;
Starter:
A starter is a small amount of crystallized honey
that is used to begin the crystallization process. It need not be fine grain. Any
crystallized honey will do.
Living starter:
Living starter is honey that after an optimum
treatment contains a large amount of crystal's seeds. Living in the meaning that the
crystallization process has not ended.
The process
To make a living starter:
1. Liquid honey is mixed with 10% crystallized honey
(starter) at 20-25 degrees C.
2. The mixture is cooled to 10 degrees and vigorously
stirred during 1 minute, then left in 10 degrees.
3. The stirring is repeated every 12 hours until the
honey becomes firm and creamy.
The living starter is now ready to be used. The
keeping qualities are such that the starter has to be used within the next few days. When
the crystallization process ends the small seeds start to move towards each other and form
larger crystals that will make the finished honey less fine-grained.
Using the living starter
To secure an optimum result the starter must not be
heated before poured into the liquid honey. When the starter is heated, the crystals also
start to move against each other to form larger units.
To avoid this, liquid honey is first added to the
10-degree starter during continuous stirring. To add the same amount of liquid honey as
the starter is sufficient. Now the living starter is ready to use.
Approximately 6% of the diluted starter is now
added to the liquid honey during mixing. The mixing continues until the starter is
completely mixed into the honey. The liquid honey should not be warmer than 27 degrees C
when the starter is added.
It is absolutely necessary to immediately mix the
starter in the liquid honey. Otherwise, the starter will be destroyed!
Honey is now ready to be packed into jars. Leave
to crystallize in 5-15 degrees C. The fastest crystallization is obtained at 10-12
degrees. It takes around 3 weeks to finish the process.
If the honey becomes too hard in the jars, wait 1-2
days after adding the starter before packing and cooling.
National Honey Board finds Honey as Medicine
Honey Best Ointment for Wounds,
Biochemist Says
Sept. 18, 1999 Rebecca Wigod The Canadian Press
VANCOUVER
Honey, an ancient Greek balm for sores and
abscesses, has fallen into disuse. After all, who wants to drizzle the sweet, sticky,
golden goo on a burn or wound? New Zealand biochemist, Peter Molan, for one.
After nearly 20 years of research, Molan has come to the
conclusion that honey cleans and heals wounds better than the dressings and ointments used
in hospitals. ''I've just been asked to send some honey over to a hospital in Britain
where they've got a teenager who has a wound so painful that they have to give him general
anesthetic every time they change the dressing,'' he told a ballroom full of rapt
beekeepers at Apimondia 99 on Thursday.
Molan works with doctors and nurses at Waikato Hospital in
Hamilton, New Zealand. They are setting up a pilot study to assess honey's efficacy as a
treatment for bedsores, diabetic foot ulcers and other hard-to-heal lesions. When he burns
himself in his kitchen at home, as happened recently, he automatically reaches for the
honey as first aid. About 50 studies, published in the British Journal of Surgery and
other journals, attest to honey's ability to maintain a moist healing environment, banish
infection, promote new skin growth and prevent scarring.
Clinicians who are skeptical haven't read the literature,
Molan said. ''Most would be surprised to know there have been randomized, controlled
trials which have proved that it's more effective than the two most widely used treatments
for burns,'' he said. Those treatments are silver sulphadiazine ointment and polyurethane
film dressings. Molan said he doesn't have the complete answer to how honey works, but
said bees add enzymes to nectar to turn it into honey. ''One of those enzymes produces
hydrogen peroxide and gluconic acid,'' he said.
Honey releases its hydrogen peroxide slowly, so it is less
damaging to skin tissue than the drugstore type, he said.
Molan said that in the last 10 years, medical personnel in
New Zealand, Australia and Great Britain have rediscovered honey as a wound
dressing.
He has helped design honey-impregnated dressing pads and
honey packaged in tubes, so they aren't getting it from grocery-store jars. ''It
definitely helps, in getting honey recognized as a medicine, to have it looking like a
medicine,'' he said.
c. The Canadian Press .
|
Classifieds
For Sale
| Call Bill Mullins 256-828-4836 or Hal Green
265-881-8531, for top quality 55% food grade high Fructose Corn syrup. This is not
syrup, which has been cleaned out of some dirty old bakery tanks. This comes directly from
the manufacturer in Bills stainless steel tanks, and then stored in his heated stainless
steel tanks, until you pick it up in your own containers. This is the most convenient and
economical way of feeding your bees. It is also a much better way to feed as the bees
don’t have to convert it to fructose, as they have to do with sugar. The bottom line
is, it’s CHEAP. .26 cents per lb, In your own containers. Try a jug, you won’t
go back to sugar |
Bill Mullins 8714-Moores Mill Rd. Meridianville AL. 256-828-4836 FLINT RIVER QUEEN
Hal Green 1009 Kinsey Dr. Hntsvl. Al. 256-881-8531, FLINT RIVER QUEENS.
WANTED TO BUY
I will buy your wax, top prices
paid call, Bill Mullins 828-4836
I would like your used bee shipping crates,
and used Queen cages I would like to start my own hive. If you have any
used bee hives and equipment, I would like to buy it.
E-mail: Karlsplants@juno.com
or call: (256)751-1470 Ask For Karl
| HONEY FOR
SALE Most all members of the Madison County Beekeepers Association have honey for
sale. The below local beekeepers manage large enough apiary to have honey available all
year. Feel free to click on any of the email address below to contact the beekeeper
nearest you. |
Charlie
Cornelison
349 Berry Hollow Rd.
Gurley, AL 35748
ph256 776 3743
No Email |
|
Maynard Dalton
861 Scott Rd.
Hazel Green, AL 35750
ph256 828 7963
mcdalton@mindspring.com
|
|
Beth
Dunson
2670 Hurricane Rd.
New Market, AL 35761
ph256 379 3671
BETHSBEEZ@aol.com |
Bob
Fanning
1332 Four Mile Post Rd.
Huntsville, AL 35802
ph256 883 9601
k4vb@knology.net |
|
Lyle
Greenwood
310 Frontier Rd.
Arab, AL 35016
ph256 586 2206
lwood@mindspring.com |
|
Lionel
Evans
1307 Fern St.
Athens, AL 35613
ph 256 232 9073
SmoothEvan@aol.com |
Bill
Mullins
8714 Moores Mill Rd.
Meridianville, AL 35759
ph256 828 4836
Billshoneyfarm@mchsi.com |
|
Douglas
Peterson
15642 E. Limestone Rd
Athens, AL 35613
ph256 233 3618
beehack@bellsouth.net |
|
Harold Green
1009 Kinsey Dr. Huntsville,AL 35802
ph 256 881 8531 halgre@knology.net |
|
Dale
R. Rohe
117 Cline Dr.
Madison, AL 35757
ph 256 837 2208 drohe@knology.net
www.rohebeeranch.com |
|
Roger
Owens
1203 Joshua Dr.
Huntsville, AL 35803
ph 256 880 2584 apiaries@bellsouth.net |
|
|
|
Note to MCBA members, if you would like your name included in
the above list and can supply honey all year, contact Bob Fanning @ k4vb@knology.net.
| MCBA
GROUP PURCHASES
One of the advantages to belonging to a local Beekeeping Association is to pool
individual resources and needs and apply a blanket solution. Each spring and fall, the
MCBA does a group equipment purchase. We have several large beekeeping operations in the
association that places several rather large orders yearly. With the group buy, all of
these operations when combined can negotiate a better price. The smaller beekeeping
operations can tack their small quantity needs onto these big orders resulting in savings
for everyone.
FALL ORDER
IWe do not make a spring medication order so be sure and include your
spring needs in your fall order. Click here for a copy of the order form. Try and pull your needs together
and give them Bill Mullins (no email, phone: 256 828 4836). We would like to finalize the
group order ASAP. You can call Bill now or let him know at the picnic at the latest
or email Bob Fanning at k4vb@knology.net.
Medication is the major item ordered in the fall, however other items will be ordered
if sufficient quantities are required to make it worthwhile. The following is a guideline
to help you determine your medication needs:
Terramycin ……...………. 1 bag will treat 13
colonies the required 3 times each
Apistan …………………... *2 strips
required per colony
Check Mite (Coumaphos). *2 strips required per colony
Menthol ………………….. 1 Bag per colony
Fumidil-B ………………... 1 (0.5 gm.) bottle
will treat 3 hives
*Use either Apistan or Check Mite for Varroa there is no need to use both at the same
time
How to use medication
Do not add any medication (except Crisco, if you use it) to the hive
until all production supers have been removed for the winter.
Terramycin
Terramycin (Oxytetracycline) is a powder that comes in a 6.4 oz. Bag. One bag will
treat approximately 13 colonies, the required three times (or 40 colonies, one time). To
mix, use one package of Terramycin (6.4 oz.) with 2 ½ lb. of confectionery sugar.
Sprinkle this mixture on the top bars of the top most super, three times at 10-day
intervals. Terramycin treats for Foulbrood, both EFB and AFB.
Apistan
Apistan (Fluvalinate) comes in brown plastic looking strips. Place one Apistan strip
between frames 3 and 4 and one between frames 7 and 8 (assuming you use ten frames in the
brood chamber) for a total of 2 strips per colony. The Apistan strips have two
"ears" pre-cut to be broken out. Hang the strips between the frames with the
"ears" bent out to prevent the strips from falling to the bottom board. This is
primarily so you can get them out after treatment and to hold them in the brood cluster.
Apistan is to be applied in the brood chamber where the brood clusters. Apistan treats for
Varroa Mites.
Menthol
Menthol comes if a very porous 50-gm.bag. Place one Bag on the top bars of the top most
super of each colony. Place a queen excluder first, then the menthol bag, then the inner
cover with the deep side down. This allows more air to circulate thus increasing the
efficiency of the treatment. IF YOU TREAT BEES IN THE HOT SUN WITH THE
TEMPERATURE ABOVE 80° F, THE BAG SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE BOTTOM BOARD. Temperature needs to be
above 60° F for effective evaporation of the crystals. Menthol treats for Tracheal Mites.
Fumidil-B
Fumidil-B is a powder that comes in three different size bottles. If you use the 0.5 gm
size bottle, mix it with 6 gallon of high fructose corn syrup (available from Flint River
Queens (256 828 4836) at approximately 22¢ per pound) or sugar syrup. Feed each colony 2
gallons of this mixture in fall. Fumidil-B treats for Nosema, a digestive disease. If you
use larger size bottles, mix per bottle directions.
Formic Acid
Formic Acid is not included the group purchase because no one in the MCBA has enough
experience with it to make recommendations. Use it at your own risk. It is best to use it
in the fall and not to use it in the spring as it is reported to have a negative affect on
queen performance.
Check Mite
CheckMite can be used instead of Apistan for
Varroa Mites and is the only current approved treatment for Small
Hive Beatles. It is also recommended for treating
mites that are resistant to Apistan.
Small Hive Beetles (SHB) arrived in most north
Alabama apiaries in the spring of 2005 in all likely hood brought
here by one Birmingham beekeeper that brought hives known to have
SHB to Limestone County for cotton honey.
The SHB is about 1/8 inch long and look
somewhat like a bowl weevil without the sharp snout and smaller.
They run when exposed to light and are pretty quick. If you find SHB
in your hives the only approved treatment in the hive is Check Mite
(Coumaphos).
To treat for SHB, you will need one Checkmite
strip and 5 x 5 inch piece of cardboard. The
surface should be removed from one side of the cardboard so that the
corrugations are exposed. Pre-cut, plastic 5
x 5 squares are available from Mann Lake Ltd, catalog No. DC-815.
Cut one Check Mite strip in half so that you
have two strips full width - half length. Staple the two
pieces to the corrugated side of a 5 x 5 inch piece of cardboard and
place it in the center of the bottom board, Check Mite side down.
The isles created by the cardboard should run "front to
back" in the hive.
The beetles hide under the cardboard thus
exposing themselves to the CheckMite, which kills them.
Since the SHB lives part of it’s life cycle
in the ground as a larva and part in the hive as a beetle, the
ground under and around your hives will should be treatment with the
chemical "GuardStar".
Mix and apply GuardStar per label
instructions. You can not use a pump up sprayer or
other application methods that produce a "Fog" as
GuardStar contains Permethrin which kills bees on contact.
It is best applied using a sprinkler can like one would use to water
flowers.
Click
here for a good reference source
for instructions on treating for SHB.
Coumaphos
and GuardStar are very strong chemicals. If you use either, follow
the instruction included with it TO
THE LETTER. If handled with the bare
hands CheckMite will cause numbness in you hand or any other area it
contacts.
PROTECTIVE GLOVES SUCH AS DISPOSABLE SURGICAL GLOVES SHOULD BE
WORN WHEN HANDLING ALL CHEMICALS USED IN THE HIVE. PAY ATTENTION TO,
AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS. IF YOU GET LOOSE ITEMS
FROM 100 PIECE BOXES, GET A COPY OF THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE
APPLICATION.
This warning is of particular
importance if you use Check Mite.
Comb honey can not be eaten from hives treated with Check Mite.
If you use Check Mite do not sell or eat the comb honey.
CLICK
HERE FOR MORE NORTH ALABAMA
HIVE MEDICATION INFORMATION
.
|
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